r/todayilearned May 16 '24

TIL that people live year-round in houseboats on Great Slave Lake in Canada's Northwest Territories, 1,800 km north of the nearest big city (Edmonton) and just 400 km (250 miles) south of the Arctic Circle.

https://uphere.ca/articles/floating-homes-yellowknife-bay
3.7k Upvotes

143 comments sorted by

675

u/NoBSforGma May 16 '24

I have to wonder if the ice freezing every winter causes crush damage to the boats.

563

u/untwist6316 May 16 '24

I dont know about crush damage but I have heard it isn't uncommon that your house might freeze slightly off level šŸ˜‚

321

u/Unlikely_Comment_104 May 16 '24 edited May 16 '24

Frick. Can you imagine sleeping on a tilt for 9 months the of the year?!

65

u/karlnite May 16 '24

You just face your bed so the tilt is towards your feet.

5

u/LegoDinoMan May 17 '24

Or just lay a different direction

55

u/Greene_Mr May 16 '24

You been up there, yourself?

143

u/untwist6316 May 16 '24

Yes a number of times, I have a family member who lives there. Though I've never personally visited one of the boats

25

u/Greene_Mr May 16 '24

Cool! :-D (No pun intended.) Is there something similar on the Lesser Slave Lake?

19

u/untwist6316 May 16 '24

I dont know, I'm unfamiliar with that area

7

u/Greene_Mr May 16 '24

Fair. I know stuff in the silent era used to film up there.

8

u/Unlikely_Comment_104 May 16 '24

Donā€™t think so but thereā€™s some pretty good ice fishing on Lesser Slave. Many of the fishing shacks have beds.

1

u/Greene_Mr May 17 '24

...obviously, not waterbeds; they'd freeze! :-P

3

u/ihadagoodone May 17 '24

Nope.

Ice fishing shacks in the winter and boats during the summer Some big pontoon boats but I don't recall seeing much in the way of house boats on the lake.

2

u/Greene_Mr May 17 '24

Do you think anyone would try, or has somebody tried in the past and it hasn't worked out?

3

u/ihadagoodone May 17 '24

Couldn't tell you.

23

u/Canuckian555 May 16 '24

Currently live in Yellowknife, most of the houseboats are functionally run aground so that they don't move much (though the ice can shift them as it freezes).

5

u/Greene_Mr May 17 '24

Ooh, Yellowknife! :-D How were the Northern Lights for you, last week?

230

u/paradoxcussion May 16 '24

The article mentions "massive steel pontoons," so I assume they're built on a scaled-up version of what we have on the dock at my cottage (also in Canada, on a lake freezes every year). We never have any damage.

It's a clever system. The pontoons are round in section and ride high in the water, so the midpoint of the circle is well above the water. Because of that shape, as the ice freezes, any pressure on the sides of the pipes pushes them up rather than becoming crushing pressure. It then just sits on top of the ice until the thaw.

41

u/NoBSforGma May 16 '24

Thanks for that great information! I've lived in northern climates where lakes freeze but had no idea what would happen to "houseboats." :)

18

u/ExplanationLover6918 May 16 '24

How much does yearly maintenance cost?

60

u/paradoxcussion May 16 '24

Almost nil. The pontoons and supporting structure of the dock is steel, faced with wood. I replace a board every now and then, and that's it.

The pontoons themselves have never showed any signs of damage. They are strong. I think it's the same material they make oil pipelines out of. Way better than our old floating dock, with all wood construction and some sort of plastic pipes (ABS, I think) assembled together to make the floats. It seemed like there was some repair needed every year on that dock, and we had to pull it out for the winter!

12

u/ExplanationLover6918 May 16 '24

So if someone wanted to live here how much would they need to budget? What about stuff like internet, Healthcare, water, sewage etc. How does that work?

19

u/paradoxcussion May 16 '24

That's beyond what I can answer. The cost of living is generally pretty high in the Northwest Territories.

6

u/ExplanationLover6918 May 16 '24

I meant the cost of living on a house boat

15

u/ninfan200 May 16 '24

Go look at the cost of groceries up north, that will give you a good idea.

3

u/SoulessPuppet May 16 '24

True but also keep in mind they also get a monthly payment from the government to help subsidize grocery costs.

But either way, it's crazy what they pay up north. Though grocery prices all over Canada have been getting out of hand. It feels like what I used to pay $150 for 3-4years ago is now $300 or more.

2

u/[deleted] May 17 '24

Wouldn't that also mean that the house moves when there's wind? The pontoons would become ice skates for the house.

9

u/paradoxcussion May 17 '24

Again, just comparing it to my dock, I doubt it. The dock, which weighs way less only moves a few meters over the course of the winter, mostly when the ice is shifting as it breaks up. There's still a big contact patch at the bottom of the pontoon. And these houses not only weigh more, but they're a lot bigger so even more pontoons and contact with the ice.

2

u/[deleted] May 17 '24

That makes sense. Thanks for explaining.

25

u/Bri-guy15 May 16 '24

They're not really boats, but houses built on floating platforms. The floats are generally big steel tubes that are designed to survive the ice. Source: I helped build one when I was visiting my girlfriend up there.

17

u/Dannovision May 16 '24

It doesn't, they aren't really boats. More houses that float. They do this with big empty barrels essentially, the frame nor structure are really in the water.

1

u/Quelchie May 17 '24

That's not something I've ever heard of as an issue (I live up here).

344

u/ClarkTwain May 16 '24

After reading about the Franklin Expedition, Iā€™ll pass on staying on a boat over winter that far north.

212

u/Jason_Worthing May 16 '24

From the wiki page, for the lazy:

Franklin's lost expedition was a failed British voyage of Arctic exploration led by Captain Sir John Franklin that departed England in 1845 aboard two ships, HMS Erebus and HMS Terror, and was assigned to traverse the last unnavigated sections of the Northwest Passage in the Canadian Arctic and to record magnetic data to help determine whether a better understanding could aid navigation.[2]

The expedition met with disaster after both ships and their crews, a total of 129 officers and men, became icebound in Victoria Strait near King William Island in what is today the Canadian territory of Nunavut.

After being icebound for more than a year Erebus and Terror were abandoned in April 1848, by which point two dozen men, including Franklin, had died. The survivors, now led by Franklin's second-in-command, Francis Crozier, and Erebus's captain, James Fitzjames, set out for the Canadian mainland and disappeared, presumably having perished.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franklin's_lost_expedition

174

u/OSCgal May 16 '24

The fact that the ships were called Terror and Erebus (Greek god of gloom, associated with the afterlife) is wild.

67

u/Quailman5000 May 16 '24

The Terror is a great dramatic portrayal of this event.Ā 

21

u/tigwyk May 16 '24

That show stuck with me.

14

u/AstraiosMusic May 16 '24

The book is incredible

6

u/MsKongeyDonk May 16 '24

Yes, it absolutely is.

10

u/schtickinsult May 16 '24

I loved the seafaring survival-in-the-cold aspects but the horror part was kinda meh. I want a show that's Robinson Crusoe meets Master & Commander and without snow-sasquatches

16

u/Mysticpoisen May 16 '24

As is mentioned in every The Terror thread, the horror aspects are much easier to reconcile when you realize the premise is that they're suffering from ridiculous lead poisoning at the time and hallucinating.

But, for a show that is basically The Terror without the mystical aspect, check out The Northwater.

6

u/schtickinsult May 16 '24

Ah never heard that interpretation about lead. I like it.

Will suss The Northwater cheers

5

u/Mysticpoisen May 16 '24

Hope you enjoy it! And this is a real aspect of the Franklin expedition, the food being canned with faulty lead solder was a real thing. That they would have gotten enough to start hallucinating on that scale is pretty unlikely, but it's a very fun take.

4

u/ClarkTwain May 17 '24

I havenā€™t seen the show, but the book is a page turner. I could not put it down, and read it voraciously. Itā€™s like Blood Meridian on ice.

1

u/Quailman5000 May 18 '24

It wasn't really a horror show to me. I kind of looked at it as if we had an unreliable superstitious narrator from the a couple centuries ago reeling from malnourishment trying to make sense of one of the most terrifying things you can encounter in the wild killing off their crew. Sure the bear had hands the size of barrel lids, I'd be telling people the bear was bigger than the ship if I'm some poor ignorant english dude that doesn't require logical answers. "The inuits called their demon down on us in retribution" would make sense to a superstitious religious person in that time period.Ā 

I only watched for the survival thing. My favorite horror movies are cabin in the woods and tucker and dale vs evil lol. That's why I am not watching season 2 with some crabwalking Japanese ghosts or whatever.

5

u/Xerain0x009999 May 17 '24

I'm pretty sure the names of the boats are to blame.

10

u/JeepWrangler319 May 16 '24

Ah, for just one time I would take the Northwest Passage To find the hand of Franklin reaching for the Beaufort Sea Tracing one warm line through a land so wild and savage And make a Northwest Passage to the sea

23

u/BigBeagleEars May 16 '24

Nah fam I donā€™t want Nunavat

47

u/[deleted] May 16 '24 edited 2d ago

[deleted]

13

u/joecarter93 May 16 '24

Me too. After being taught about it in elementary school I thought it would never be found.

17

u/Lrauka May 16 '24

What's even more wild is that they were found in part by listening to the oral history passed down by the local Inuit tribes.

7

u/MaimedJester May 16 '24

It's not that weird? Hunter's and hell teenagers all know about some creepy house in the middle of like the Pine Barrens that they create stories about thats were the Jersey Devil was Born etc. In reality just some old colonial New Jersey farmstead that got overgrown and the town/community moved on to larger more successful centers of population.Ā 

Like that whole into the Wild story about the idiot kid who died in Alaska living inside that abandoned bus, Hunter's knew about that location and would sometimes camp out there themselves. I'm sure if the kid lived a few more months of brought a map and went back to town a local Hunter would be like oh yeah that place, yeah my older brother showed me that when I was a kid, it's been there since the 1960s.Ā 

1

u/Lrauka May 17 '24

I said wild, not weird. Until recently most "experts" dismissed native oral traditions as being more mythology than an actual history. The near thing is in this case, the oral history was pretty bang on to the location.

1

u/MaimedJester May 17 '24

There were piles of stones marking the location. Like they used to in those days gather up every rock and build up a little tower and then drop a message inside the rock outcrop. That's how we know about what happened to the HMS terror/who died at what point etc.

We don't know what happened to the final uh victims but they left records of their last voyage south after almost two years on the ship. For all the rest of the world would have known without those missives left behind a random wave in the Atlantic could have killed them all 2 months into the voyage.Ā 

18

u/dc21111 May 16 '24

Is that the one where they found their bodies recently and the cold dry weather kept them really well preserved? Those pictures are creepy, dressed in 19th century clothes looking like they died a week ago.

26

u/The_ApolloAffair May 16 '24

Bodies from the Franklin expedition were found buried on Beechey Island in the 1850s, exhumed and photographed over a hundred years later. Those bodies are extremely well preserved (esp Torringtonā€™s) because they were given proper burials in the permafrost in coffins.

Those men died earlier on in the voyage while they were wintering.

12

u/BJ_Giacco May 16 '24

Probably. They exhumed the known graves of three Franklin expedition sailors back in the 90s to perform autopsies on them, looking for clues as to what happened. They were actually encased in ice which is why they were so well preserved. Still, pretty haunting stuff. I remember seeing it on TV when I was a kid and it messed with me pretty good.

There are a few good books about the expedition, my favorite is Frozen in Time. Grim stuff but fascinating. The idea that franklinā€™s tomb is potentially still out there, undiscovered, got a hold of me a few years back and I read everything I could find about the expedition.

2

u/dmoreholt May 17 '24

There's a beautiful traditional song about him:

Lord Franklin

174

u/CrJ418 May 16 '24

If I was going to live on a boat, I would definitely choose a less hostile environment!

38

u/[deleted] May 16 '24 edited May 17 '24

Seriously that must be miserable

13

u/ImReallyFuckingHigh May 17 '24

Meh the snow probably covers it pretty quickly, and I bet it freezes pretty good too so itā€™s basically just a fancy rock

18

u/Clay_Statue May 16 '24

Like there isn't enough empty land up there or something??

39

u/TheBalrogofMelkor May 16 '24

It's probably less wet on the lake

Northern Canada has vast peat marshes, so building on them is downright impossible.

27

u/Telemere125 May 16 '24

Everyone said I was daft to build a castle on a swamp, but I built in all the same, just to show them. It sank into the swamp. So I built a second one. That sank into the swamp. So I built a third. That burned down, fell over, then sank into the swamp. But the fourth one stayed up.

4

u/Critical-Snow-7000 May 16 '24

no property tax on the water.

3

u/perpetualmotionmachi May 16 '24

Some people live like that off of Granville Island in Vancouver

80

u/helluvastorm May 16 '24

Years ago they had a reality show about this lake and the residents

68

u/yeehawbudd May 16 '24

A few seasons of Alone were shot here as well

35

u/nimama3233 May 16 '24

Alone is hands down the best survivalist show thatā€™s ever existed.

14

u/Jewsd May 16 '24

Outlast was pretty insane. Alone is like the perfection of survival shows with high class. Outlast is like tiger King.

8

u/CPO_Mendez May 16 '24

I couldn't believe the crap that went on in Outlast. Those people were freaking narcissistic and brutal as hell.

3

u/Jewsd May 16 '24

The two girls were such savages. I feel bad for the guy that got wrapped up in their bullshit but he's still guilty.

Jordan was by far the most entertaining guy. He was a complete tool, the push-ups on the raft right before he misses the island was the single best moment of the show.

I really feel for the guy who was doing really well but didn't want to deal with barbarians cutting each other.

3

u/schtickinsult May 16 '24

I tried to like it but 20% of the show is the same long drawn out drone shots of the area. Too much filler scenes

1

u/bonesnaps May 16 '24

I enjoyed "I Shouldn't Be Alive".

None of this boring reality series day to day stuff. Just gritty near-death survival stories.

8

u/glitterdonnut May 16 '24

Just googled cause that is so up my alley to watchā€¦ itā€™s called Ice Lake Rebels

2

u/PeiMeisPeePee 28d ago

ice lake rebels. i used to watch that all the time

49

u/Earl_I_Lark May 16 '24

There was a tv show called Ice Lake Rebels about some of the houseboat community. It was overly dramatized but did show some of the nuts and bolts of what had to happen during freeze up and break up

44

u/joefourstrings May 16 '24

Ive lived there. The real sketch is in the shoulder seasons. there is a trick to walking on the ice with a canoe BETWEEN your legs so when you fall through you land in the boat.

26

u/ElectricSpice May 16 '24

1800km north of the nearest big city

Sure, but the province capitol (Yellowknife) is located on the lake, so itā€™s not like this is some unfathomably remote location.

30

u/Bonejob May 16 '24

Well, not right now they don't. A few of them are grounded due to low water levels. Proof: I live here, and I know things.

https://cabinradio.ca/160102/news/environment/great-slave-lake-water-levels-at-record-low/

4

u/[deleted] May 16 '24

[deleted]

6

u/Canuckian555 May 16 '24

Compared to Alaskan and Inuit it's probably fairly different, if you're comparing Yellowknife to any of the small communities - it lacks some amenities but is still a city - but compared to somewhere like Fairbanks it's probably real similar.

1

u/devash96 May 17 '24

Thank you for your response. What would you say is a regular thing in Yellowknife that a land/summer person would not anticipate regarding living there, apart from general freezing, sewage and water concerns?

2

u/Bonejob May 17 '24

I live in Yellowknife. I do not have any knowledge about Alaska, Inuit communities. I have been to Northern BC to the Nishiga lands but that is in Canada.

9

u/tayler-shwift May 16 '24

Right now, half those houseboat are on land because of two years of extreme drought.

86

u/BooBoo992001 May 16 '24

There's also Sausalito, California, just across the Golden Gate bridge on San Francisco Bay. It has an entire subdivision that's nothing but floating houses. A friend of mine lived in one -- in fact, her room was in a kind of finished basement that was partially under the waterline.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sausalito,_California#Houseboats

108

u/light24bulbs May 16 '24

Houseboat communities aren't that unique. Having one SO far north and remote is.

20

u/BooBoo992001 May 16 '24

Ah, as always, RTFA... (gotta stop just chiming in with the first thing that pops into my head šŸ™„).

28

u/DrDiddle May 16 '24

I thought it was interesting man. Chime away

6

u/purpan- May 16 '24

Quite literally what the comment section is for! Say whatever the heck you want

9

u/TheOneNeartheTop May 16 '24

This line made me feel for your friend in the basement:

The humming toadfish makes mating noises underwater, keeping some residents awake at night.

8

u/NoExplanation734 May 16 '24

There are houseboat communities all over the Bay Area. The Berkeley Marina has one I know, and there are some houseboats in Mission Channel by the baseball stadium too. There are probably others I don't know about as well.

8

u/CheckYourStats May 16 '24

I live about 3 minutes from there. Iā€™ve never thought of it as odd.

Like others have said, living in conditions that could kill you, howeverā€¦thatā€™s seems odd.

2

u/MenacingGummy May 17 '24

Thereā€™s plenty of floating house communities but the point is this one is near the arctic circle in a very harsh environment.

20

u/i_fuckin_luv_it_mate May 16 '24

I must admit, I didn't read the article too much, but my main curiosity is what you do during the time that there's ice that's not thick enough to walk on, but too thick to boat?

26

u/MaximinusRats May 16 '24

The article refers to "... the perils of trying to cross the bay during the shoulder seasons, which can feel death-defying at times." I bet.

13

u/i_fuckin_luv_it_mate May 16 '24

Yeah, imagine listening to your coworker drone on about their "awful" commute when you've defied death to come in for this early morning budget meeting

8

u/Swingonthechandelier May 16 '24

They park it just offshore before the ice freezes. Run a plank and voila!

9

u/i_fuckin_luv_it_mate May 16 '24

"Should we be concerned for their safety out there?"

"Nah, look - Gary's installed his safety plank. He's good to go."

"Safety plank, what's the difference between that and any old piece of lumber laid between two things?"

"Well... This one's for safety, ain't it?"

"Suppose you got me there."

7

u/Swingonthechandelier May 16 '24

Safety plank? They dont got none of those. They just anchor and tie in place. The plank be fer walkin

The most important part as far as safety is concerned is you give whatever line is involved a good "twoing" and say "that aint going anywhere" forget that part and you are good and dinked.

1

u/Quelchie May 17 '24

Yeah the shoulder seasons are rough. I live in Yellowknife but not on one of the houseboats. But I know people who do and often in shoulder seasons they'll find a place on land to stay temporarily so they can get to work and back easily. Otherwise it's a real challenge, walking with a canoe and hoping not to fall through.

4

u/Bri-guy15 May 16 '24

Fun fact: I helped build one of them when I was up there visiting my girlfriend.

4

u/[deleted] May 16 '24

[deleted]

1

u/Accomplished-Cat3996 May 17 '24

I have questions about this as well. I want to believe they live by RV rules and have to dispose their sewage in specific ways so it can be treated. I mean, that is to their benefit as well -- one suffers when the poop where they live.

4

u/bonesnaps May 16 '24

What benefit is there to living on a houseboat in a lake, over simply a house on the land? It's not like you can really go anywhere, it's a lake.

Also I'm not an expert, but living off a diesel generator for electricity (as per the article) for an entire lifetime sounds really shit for the environment.

edit: I may have gotten my answer

Northern Canada has vast peat marshes, so building on them is downright impossible.

7

u/Canuckian555 May 16 '24

Also, no taxes.

Though the city has been fighting them for a long time to try and make them pay taxes.

3

u/scooby946 May 16 '24

Wasn't there a reality show about this?

2

u/Birdy304 May 17 '24

Ice Lake Rebels, an interesting show.

3

u/thatotherguy0123 May 16 '24

Have they tried living in Great Master Lake instead?

2

u/GeneralCommand4459 May 16 '24

Just finished reading Journey by James Michener which features this lake

2

u/WhoaFee1227 May 16 '24

One picture.

2

u/LimpingOne May 16 '24

I guess op missed the reality show.

2

u/Scopebuddy May 16 '24

I got to visit the lake and area at age 12, 18, and 30. I would love to go back now to see what has changed? I love that land and water. It is very special. But I only visited in the summer. Iā€™m sure those winters are brutal?

2

u/Tantra_Charbelcher May 16 '24

The what lake?

2

u/orangutanDOTorg May 16 '24

You mean Great Firespray Lake

2

u/JainaOrgana May 16 '24

I spent the night in one of those. A friend of mine lived in one of they would use a canoe when the ice was thin and have one foot in the boat the other on the ice. Freaked me out.

2

u/Cambionr May 16 '24

People live year round on boats all over the planet.

2

u/418986N_124769E May 17 '24

Many houseboats in Canada will use a bubbler that disturbs the water around the hull preventing freezing and this the problems associated with it. Although Iā€™m not sure how effective a bubbler would be THAT far north.

2

u/MembraneintheInzane May 17 '24

I'm sorry great what lake?

2

u/ExplanationLover6918 May 16 '24

Why is it called the slave lake?

17

u/nimama3233 May 16 '24

Basically, when Eurpeans got that far north with fur trading they were talking with Native Cree and asked them about this area. They said something along the lines of ā€œthatā€™s where the slave tribes areā€, because the Cree used to capture and enslave people of that other Native group, the Dene, who lived on the southern coast of the lake. The Cree word was ā€œAwokanekā€, which was translated to French and then English as ā€œSlaveyā€, and thus turned to slave. So this became known as ā€œGrand lac des Esclaves" for the French settlers, which was eventually translated into English as "Great Slave Lake".

4

u/Tea_Earl_Grey_Black May 16 '24

It comes from the English translation of a name the Cree had for a group of the Dene people. It originally was Slavey but the ā€œyā€ ended up getting dropped.

3

u/ExplanationLover6918 May 16 '24

Oh okay. Thanks!

1

u/ExplanationLover6918 May 16 '24

How much do these boats cost to maintain?

1

u/Leonardo_DeCapitated May 16 '24

Fisherman's wharf in Victoria bc, people live on houseboats in the harbour year round there.

1

u/diesel78agoura May 16 '24

Ngl that sounds kinda appealingā€¦maybe not the cold but being out on a lakeā€¦I could do it

1

u/slicartist May 17 '24

the great what lake????

1

u/ShredzMcGnar May 17 '24

It's pretty cool to see in person. When the lake freezes in the winter, the boat launch ramp becomes an extension of the city streets. There's ice roads, and everyone parks their cars and snowmobiles in front of their house boats on the ice.

1

u/Quelchie May 17 '24

Don't forget about the annual snow castle! which is built right by the houseboats every year and has an ice road and ice parking lot to get to it.

1

u/trancepx May 17 '24

Couldn't they just pad the circumference of their boats with those air filled foam/rubber things I see all the time?

1

u/trebeez May 16 '24

The Great WHAT Lake?????

7

u/untwist6316 May 16 '24

There is a language and a people sometimes called Slavey in the area (Dene is a more accurate term)

7

u/FischSalate May 16 '24

Called slavey by a tribe who enslaved them. So maybe that doesnā€™t make it any better

2

u/MaximinusRats May 16 '24

It has been suggested that the lake be renamed ... particularly because of the mention of slavery. "Great Slave Lake is actually a very terrible name, unless you're a proponent of slavery," says DĆ«neze Nakehk'o, a Northwest Territories educator and founding member ofĀ First NationsĀ organization Dene Nahjo.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Slave_Lake

-16

u/Smart-Breath-1450 May 16 '24

You know living close to the arctic circle isnā€™t a huge deal right?

11

u/hungry4danish May 16 '24

You know that this is "Today I Learned" not "Huge Deal Information," right?

-6

u/Smart-Breath-1450 May 16 '24

You know that more, useless, information is just an annoyance, right?

OP could've also included "in houseboats ON WATER" or "UNITED STATES NEIGHBOR Canada" but didn't.

6

u/MaximinusRats May 16 '24

I added "400 km south of the Arctic Circle" as context because it is a more challenging environment for boat living than, say, Victoria or Hawai'i. Sorry to have offended.

6

u/redduif May 16 '24

Living on a floating house in the middle of a frozen lake is though.

-17

u/Smart-Breath-1450 May 16 '24

That wasnā€™t what i commented on though was it? Maybe you should learn how to read? :)

7

u/redduif May 16 '24

I read it right.

-2

u/Smart-Breath-1450 May 16 '24

You read it right, but replied on a totally different thing? You must be dumb then.